Sorry, that was in calibration mode, but the bung is 1 inch tall so its still not hanging down into the exhaust stream, at least much.
Oh, and it needs to be running while the bike is running.

I have it installed right though. The instructions are on their website.

I'm going to reserve judgement until we get some warmer air temps, say 75 or so. If I call Yamaha about this now I'm pretty sure they're going to tell me the bike was still enriching because of the cold temp. And usually the idle will be a little leaner than cruise.

During acceleration the computer will drop out of closed loop, if it hasn't already, and adjust the fuel so the stock O2 sensors are returning a voltage of 0.8-0.9 which translates to a high 12 to 13.? AFR.

As it turns out I rode mine for 20 miles today at 70 and I could still touch the oil lines without getting burned, they were fairly warm but I could leave my hand on them. The air temperature was about 55.

As an example, the Warrior doesn't completely shut off the cold fast idle valve until the oil temp gets to 175.

River,
You are correct. According to the manual the sensor sets flush with the pipe. Looks are deceiving, With the curve in the bung it appeared that sensor would be further into the pipe. But I guess not. Oh well. The thing works great regardless. I got tired of paying for Dyno runs every time I did something to the bike(playing with jetting) So this gauge was the perfect tuning tool for me. IMO it was $200 bucks well spent.

texasscott1 wrote:
I'm going to reserve judgement until we get some warmer air temps, say 75 or so. If I call Yamaha about this now I'm pretty sure they're going to tell me the bike was still enriching because of the cold temp. And usually the idle will be a little leaner than cruise.

During acceleration the computer will drop out of closed loop, if it hasn't already, and adjust the fuel so the stock O2 sensors are returning a voltage of 0.8-0.9 which translates to a high 12 to 13.? AFR.

As it turns out I rode mine for 20 miles today at 70 and I could still touch the oil lines without getting burned, they were fairly warm but I could leave my hand on them. The air temperature was about 55.

As an example, the Warrior doesn't completely shut off the cold fast idle valve until the oil temp gets to 175.

I don't know Scott, I did a bit of in town riding before I hit the freeway, then back to in town driving. According to the engine temps I got the bike was plenty hot. Maybe staying at freeway speed would cool the engine, but I avoided that.

We'll see. I don't know yet which temp sensor and at what temp the bike stops enriching. There are 3, one up around the steering stem, one in the intake air around the throttle body and the other in the left side of the front cylinder.

After I got back from my little run the airbox was slightly warm to the touch which meant it was working properly. With the wide open air filters I doubt the intake air ever gets warm during the winter. Also, the rich idle you're getting is a flag. FI systems usually try to lean the idle somewhat. Remember the readings I posted for my car - 15.7 at idle and 14.8 at 3,000 rpm's.

Now having said all of that I think your bike is running like it should now. However, I know from printed material that the computer uses a lower O2 (leaner) reading to keep the fuel adjusted when in closed loop because of the AIS extra air. And that there are no codes in the manual that would indicate the AIS is disconnected or for some other reason not working.

My fingers are getting kind of itchy now for one of those Innovate units. In my mind they're better than chrome LOL. Were you able to weld the bung in yourself or did you get a muffler shop to do it?

I had a welder do it, but I could have done it myself.

Here is a qustion, how much past stoich can the bike run without starting to burn the valves or do other bad things to the engine?

River wrote:
Here is a qustion, how much past stoich can the bike run without starting to burn the valves or do other bad things to the engine?

I struggled not to respond to this one...


Rich

Here is a small article that hits that subject in one spot. Also your gauge will show a different color on the outer ring when you get to a undesirable AFR.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=stoich%20air%20fuel%20ratio&source=web&cd=6&ved=0CGYQFjAF&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.carcraft.com%2Ftecharticles%2F116_0402_innovate_air_fuel_ratio_meter%2Findex.html&ei=r9cKT7XMFob0ggeuvbmoAg&usg=AFQjCNHcg2_AZNUXIrNG4CxfrYMPXOBJ4A&cad=rja

Automobile manufacturers are using the wide band (Lambda) sensors for more accurate fuel control. I'm sure there is someone here that understands the electronics of the wide band sensor better than I. Basically though it uses a narrow band sensor on the reference air side (outside air) to begin its measurement then measures the current necessary to keep the output of an electrochemical cell constant.

Most gauges using the wide band sensor will allow you to tap in to the narrow band output if necessary.

Even though Yamaha states that the bike will run lean without the AIS I doubt it'll be allowed to run so lean that it'll be hurt. It does after all keep track of the cylinder temp.

Edit: I'm wondering where the best place is for the sensor on a carbureted bike. Seems like it would be at the muffler crossover but I don't think it'll fit there.