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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again....
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TOPIC: Re:Oh hell... Oil...again....
#450228
Questcap (User)
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  
I actually do know about the difference between the 2. The 15w-50 has around 1200 ppm, while the V-Twin has some 1600 ppm.

The price difference is substantial, and the 1200 ppm may be considered just barely adequate, while the V-twin certainly does have enough.

I ran the 15w-50 for years in all my air-cooled motors in everything... including my bikes, but for my R*s, I just won't take the chance of shorting my motor of all the zinc and phosphrous I know it needs.

It's not like you're actually putting your bike in danger... you're just, sort of, flirting with the lowest acceptable limit of protection.

The 15w-50 has 25% less... or the V-Twin oil has 33% more, depending upon how you look at it. If that lack is okay with you... it's not likely to bite you, BUT it could.
 
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#450239
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  
Bottom line is .. 'Opinions are like BUTT holes, we ALL have our own', and "It is what it is, and it will be what it's gonna be". We all do our own thing, and it works for us! That's why none of our bikes look the same. Be Yourself, Everyone else is already taken.
 
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remtool (User)
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  
Hey Questcap, Thanks for the feedback. Got any ideas about some kind of additive that might help?
 
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#450249
ahamay (User)
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  
remtool wrote:
A little off topic, but....I'm an old guy on SS. Found Mobil 1 15-50 racing oil at K-mart yesterday for $4.65 qt. I had just paid $10.65 for Mobil V twin 20-50. Not sure about the ppm status and don't really care at this point. I bought enough for a couple of years.You will when your clutch starts slipping! On the bottle does it say approved for wet clutches? If not don't use it.
 
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#450250
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  

All I would say is before changeing from a stock engine oil to a synthetic oil you must run a Crankcase Cleaner for 7-15 minute of idle time to break down existing regular oil and to aide in removeing stock oil in the crooks and cranies of the engine and in between the clutch plates, If you do not perform this step from regular oil to synthetic oil or "visa versa" your clutch will slip... period... if not now it will later!


Have been back and fourth with synthetic and dino without ever running a crankcase cleaner, 60,XXX and no problems due to oil, my clutch don't slip period.
 
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#450268
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  
Rem,

I don't, but I'll fess up to this. I've been user of the additive called TufOil for almost 30 years in everything. It holds the Guinness world record as the world's slipperiest substance, and has a lot of outside objective tests to substantiate the claim.

I have personally, by accident, holed an oil pan and lost all my oil in an off-road vehicle. The oil pressure light came on, and I didn't stop. I drove for miles with NO oil pressure, and brought it home... let it idle and listened for noise. There was NO engine damage. So, I know the stuff works.

It's been tested in wet clutch bikes, and is supposedly safe for them. I suppose it is, too, as I've added it to all my wet clutch bikes since the early 80's.
 
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Last Edit: 2012/01/12 11:35 By Questcap. Reason: spellin\'
 
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#450270
Questcap (User)
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  
And Grump, while the philosophy of your post works for appearance mods... there's no way that it should be applied to our bike engine oil!!!
 
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#450294
remtool (User)
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  
Thanks again. I'll look for it.
 
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#450297
remtool (User)
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  
You're right. The Mobil 1 web sight said it is not recommended for wet clutches do to high levels of molybdenum.
Guess I'll have to blend it in with my regular 5-20 in my F150. Thanks for your post, ahamay.
 
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#450357
scottw (User)
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Re:Oh hell... Oil...again.... 6 Years, 1 Month ago  
Questcap wrote:
I actually do know about the difference between the 2. The 15w-50 has around 1200 ppm, while the V-Twin has some 1600 ppm.

The price difference is substantial, and the 1200 ppm may be considered just barely adequate, while the V-twin certainly does have enough.

I ran the 15w-50 for years in all my air-cooled motors in everything... including my bikes, but for my R*s, I just won't take the chance of shorting my motor of all the zinc and phosphrous I know it needs.

It's not like you're actually putting your bike in danger... you're just, sort of, flirting with the lowest acceptable limit of protection.

The 15w-50 has 25% less... or the V-Twin oil has 33% more, depending upon how you look at it. If that lack is okay with you... it's not likely to bite you, BUT it could.

==========================================
For anyone thats intersted here's the exact zinc/phos or zddp #'s.

Mobil 1 15-50 syn has 1300ppm zddp & isn't so wet clutch friendly having friction mods & mobil 1 v twin 20-50 syn has 1700ppm zddp with no fric mods being more wet clutch friendly.

And this data are straight up facts obtained from recent oil testing and also from contacting Mobil-1's online oil tech srv'c.

1300ppm zddp is enough/minimum i'd run in a stock R* running stock valventrain/stock valvesprings etc.

But step up to a perf cam with higher v-spring rates and i'd opt for a bike oil with additional zddp protection for the FT cam & lifters.

Scott
 
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